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Watertower |
A Virtual Stroll Around the Walls of Chester 17. St. Martin's Gate |
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ntil recently, as
we
walked
east
along
the
North
Wall,
we
came
once
again
to
the
chaotic
scenes
of
a townscape
in
transition.
All
trace
the
unattractive
modern
additions
to
the
Chester
Royal
Infirmary
had
vanished,
medical
services
had
moved
to
the
newer
Countess
of
Chester
Hospital
on
Liverpool
Road
and
work
upon
the
new
houses
was underway. By the Autumn of 2002, the radical redevelopment of this large and historic site was largely complete.

(Here, by the way, is a fascinating and extensive illustrated history of hospitals in and around Chester).
The
Infirmary
had
been
enlarged
in
1914-
the
Albert
Wood
Wing
being
opened
in
March
of
that
year
by
King
George
V and
Queen
Mary,
the
hospital
being
permitted
to
assume
the
title
of
Royal
Infirmary
as
a result
of
their
visit. Albert
Wood himself was
a citizen
of
Conwy in
North
Wales-
and
a grateful
ex-patient,
who
funded
the
work
with
a gift
of £12,500.
The hospital was extended once again to house new out-patient and accident departments,
this new section being opened on 11th June 1963 by Princess Marina, the Duchess
of Kent.
Both of
these
extensions
have
now
vanished
as
if
they
had
never
been.
During
the
preparatory
work
for
the
construction
of
the
earliest
of
them, the eminent archaeologist,
Professor
Robert
Newstead
undertook
an
investigation
of
the
site,
when
evidence
of
Roman
burials
came
to
light.
It is exceedingly difficult to imagine this place as recently as the middle
of the last century when Thomas Hughes wrote of it, "We see on our left hand, through the refreshing grove of trees, a large and
verdant mead, still retaining its ancient name of the Barrow Field or
Lady Barrow's Hey. This is the place where the soldiers of old Rome went
through their daily military exercises, and where, 1500 years later, great numbers
of the citzens who died of the plague were hurredly interred".
This
Barrow
Field
was
the
last
survivor
of
the
extensive
open
lands
lying
within
the
city
walls
that
once
lay
between
here
and
the
present
site
of
the
Police
HQ,
and
collectively
known
as
the
Crofts. You can see the large area it once occupied on this detail of the 1898 Chester OS map.
In
March
1997,
it
was
announced
that
planning
permission
had
been
granted
to
Bryant
Homes
for
a development
of
100
homes
ranging
from
one
bedroom
flats
to
three-storey,
four
bedroom
town
houses
to
be
built
on
the
site,
and
that
three
of
the
roads
within
the
new
development
were
to
be
given
names
connected
with
Chester's
twin
town,
Sens
in
northern
Burgundy:
The
Yonne,
Brennus
Place
and
Sens
Close.
(Yonne
is
the
name
of
the
Department
in
which
Sens
is
situated
and
also
the
river
on
which
it
stands,
whereas
Brennus
was
an
ancient
Gallic
warrior
and
hero
who
led
the
struggle
against
the
Romans
in
the
Sens
area).
Before building work started, a team of archaeologists undertook a 16-week
investigation of the site. Amidst the noise and clouds of dust from nearby demolition
work, they and their discoveries could be seen through observation ports in
the surrounding fencing, which had been decorated with a series of fine murals
by six local primary schools on the theme of 'Routeways to Chester through Time'.
Much
Roman
and
Saxon
pottery
was
found,
as
well
as
the
foundations
of
some
prevously-unknown
agricultural
buildings
and
features
connected
with
a Roman
cemetery.
A large
amount
of
green
and
yellow-glazed
medieval
roof
tiles
were
also
discovered,
as
well
as
later
material
dating
from
the
17th
-19th
centuries.
Our
photograph
below
shows
a wonderful,
previously
unrecorded,
cobbled
roadway
complete
with
central
drain,
appearing
out
of
the
mud
for
the
first
time
in
many
centuries,
which
has
been
dated
to
around
the
middle
of
the
14th
century.
Notice
how
the
section
furthest
from
the
camera
has
been
resurfaced
to
a higher
quality,
using
smaller
stones.
A great tithe barn belonging to St. Werburgh's Abbey
once stood somewhere in this vicinity- King Street opposite used to be
known as Barn Lane- and it was hoped traces of it may be discovered.
Unfortunately, this proved not to be the case and the barn's site is now surmised
to lie somewhere under the modern ring road.
When a former nurse's home next to this road was demolished towards the end
of the dig, a 16th century pipe kiln was discovered, one of the first
to be found in the city, and now established as the oldest known in the UK-
complete with large quantities of broken pottery and clay pipes.
Tentative evidence of prehistoric occupation of the site was also found- in
an ancient place like Chester, where almost every square inch has been repeatedly
built and rebuilt upon, century after century, evidence of pre-Roman occupation
is extremely rare and finds of such ancient remains are almost unknown.
The
developers
gained
a lot
of
positive
publicity
when
they
declared
they
were
altering
their
plans
to
allow
the
road
and
other
remains
to
be
reburied
and
built
on
top
of,
thus
preserving
them
for
future
generations. But,
soon
afterwards,
they
instead
destroyed
much
of
it
by
the
laying
of
concrete
foundations.
This
writer
witnessed
the
excavator
at
its
destructive
work
while
conducting
a party
of
Australian
visitors
round
the
walls-
who
were
astonished
that
such
needless
vandalism
should
have
occured.
But
at
least
the
original
1761
Infirmary itself-
a grade
II
listed
building-
has
been
fully
restored
to
form
an
integral
part
of
the
new
housing
development,
and
its
interior
sub-divided
into
18
'executive
apartments'.
We
saw
the
building
floodlit
at
night
in
October
2001,
just
after
the
scaffolding
had
come
down,
and
must
say
it
looked
magnificent.
Planning permission had been granted to this large housing development partly upon the condition that a children's play area was constructed for the benefit of the younger new residents. As it has turned out, the sort of community this has become may be ascertained by the number of complaints which soon began to be received by the developers, to the effect that said playground "was not required or wanted". Residents also complained about paying ground rent for the planned play area and expressed the fear that it would "attract youths" (God forbid) to the area. They didn't even agree with a plan to install benches within the grounds!
As a result of all the moaning, developers Bryant Homes notified the
city council that they had been persuaded not to proceed with the playground- only to be informed that they would then be in breach of their planning permission and a limited extension of the time allowed for the completion of the work was granted. Bryant then offered to pay £15,000 towards the restoration of the nearby Water Tower Gardens if they could be released from their obligation to construct the playground and this was duly agreed by the city council planning board in October 2001.
In December 1998, during (archaeologically unsupervised) excavations to lay pipes along the course of City Walls Road, workers discovered a pila- a stone pillar which once formed part of a Roman hypocaust, or central heating system. It does not form part of an in situ building so was presumably transported here for re-use from the ruins of a bath house or substantial private dwelling. One such existed until the 18th century in nearby Watergate Street and- even closer to the Infirmary site- evidence was discovered for the possible existence of a Centurion's residence just across the present Inner Ring Road under the currently-derelict bowling green in Hunter Street. As we have learned elsewhere, this entire area is currently awaiting some form of redevelopment- details of which finally emerged in July 2001- which hopefully will include a thorough archaeological investigation to confirm this.
To
our
left,
as
we
continue
to
move
parallel
to
the
Shropshire
Union
Canal
and
its
interesting
lock
system,
the
changing
landscape
around
Tower
Wharf
may
be
seen.
This
is
another
part
of
Chester
due
for
major
changes
in
the
near
future,
when
British
Waterways
pushes
through
its
controversial
development
plans.
The
area
immediately
below
the
wall
here
is
pleasantly
wooded
and
provided
with
picnic
tables,
from
where
you
may
observe
the
canal
boats
coming
and
going
through
the
locks.
The
towpath
between
here
and
Hoole
has
recently
undergone
a
much-needed
restoration
and
is
much
more
pleasant
to
cycle
and
walk
upon
than
it
formerly
was.
Pemberton's
Parlour
We
presently
come
to
a
curious
semi-circular
structure
on
our
left.
This
is
the much-altered
medieval
Dille's
Tower
or
Goblin
Tower-
but
more
commonly
known
today
as
Pemberton's
Parlour
after
one
John
Pemberton,
an
18th
century
ropemaker
and
Mayor
of
Chester,
who
owned
a
ropewalk
inside
the
wall
at
this
point
and
who
was
accustomed
to
supervising
his
employees
from
the
sheltered
vantage
point
of
this
tower.
Here
we
see
the
Goblin
Tower
in
a
watercolour
of
the
1820s
and
below
in
an
old
photograph
dating
from
the
early
years
of
the
twentieth
century,
each
showing
it
flanked
by
Hughes'
"refreshing
grove
of
trees",
standing
where
now
only
cars
flourish. The modern photograph by the author (above) of some of the new houses on the site also shows the old tower in the background.
The
tower
once
straddled
the
wall
as
a
completely
circular
structure
with
a
walkway
running
through
the
middle,
and
stood
twice
its
present
height.
Badly
damaged
during
the
17th
century
Siege
of
Chester, it
deteriorated
until
the
early
part
of
the
18th
century,
when,
as
part
of
an
extensive
programme
of
repairs
to
the extensively
war-damaged
walls,
the
crumbling
top
and
inner
portions
were
demolished
and
the
local
builder
and
sculptor
John
Tilston
rebuilt
what
was
left
into
its
present
form-
that
of
a
decorative
arbour,
complete
with
sculpted
panels
depicting
the
Royal
and
City
coats
of
arms
and
bearing
the
following
inscription:
IN
THE
7th
YEAR
OF
THE
GLORIOUS
REIGN
OF
QUEEN
ANNE,
DIVERS
LARGE
BREACHES
IN
THESE
WALLS
WERE
REBUILT
AND
OTHER
DECAYS
THEREIN
REPAIRED.
TWO
THOUSAND
YARDS
OF
THE
PACE
WERE
NEW
FLAGGED
OR
PAVED
AND
THE
WHOLE
IMPROVED,
REGULATED
AND
ADORNED
AT
THE
EXPENSE
OF
ONE
THOUSAND
POUNDS
AND
UPWARDS
-followed
by
the
names
of
the
Mayors
1701-8,
and
the
name
of
the
Recorder
and
murengers-
the
officials
responsible
for
the
administration
of
the
Murage,
a
tax
imposed
upon
goods
entering
the
city
for
the
maintainance
of
the
city
walls.
The
'divers
large
breaches'
referred
to
were
the
result
of
the
long
battering
by
Parlimentary
guns
and
grenados
(mortars)
during
the
bloody
siege
of
sixty
years
earlier.
In
1894,
owing
to
the
constant
vibration
from
the
nearby
trains-
there
were
more
of
them
then-
the
Goblin
Tower
had
to
be
rebuilt
yet
again,
but
the
original
plaques,
although
somewhat
weathered
by
this
time,
were
replaced
over
the
entrance,
where
you
may,
with
some
difficulty,
still
read
their interesting
inscriptions
today.
Well recorded may be the name and activities on this spot of 18th century ropemaker and Mayor John Pemberton, but the city records show that, in 1733, one Jonathan Whittell applied for and was granted, for a yearly payment of 12d, permission to use the lane "between Barn Lane (King Street) and the New Tower "to spin and make small cords and ropes". This ropewalk long survived and is shown on Hemingways map of 1829, almost a century later. Water Tower Street stands on its site today.
Whittell subsequently applied to erect various buildings in the vicinity to store tools, tar ropes etc, situated on a piece of land belonging to the city and "near to that part of the City walls known as the Queen's Seat"- an evocative name that has sadly long vanished from use.
Ring
Road
Passing
on,
the
increasing
noise
and
smell
of
traffic
warns
us
that
we
are
once
again
approaching
the
inner
ring
road
and
here
we
see
before
us
the
most
recent
breach
in
Chester's
ancient
circuit
of
walls-
St. Martin's
Gate-
so
called
because
of
an
association
of
the
area
with
the
ancient
parish
of
that
name.
As
the
city
grew,
and
with
the
advent
of
the
motor
car,
plans
for
a
new
road
to
take
traffic
around
the
outside
of
the
city
rather
than
though
its
ancient
narrow
streets
had
been
discussed
since
at
least
the
1940s.
One
route
proposed
at
that
time
(as
part
of
the
Greenwood
Development
Plan
of
1944)
sent
the
new
road
up
narrow
and
historic
King
Street-
obliterating
most
of
it
in
the
process-
and
out
through
an
enlarged
Northgate.
However,
in
the
1960s,
the
present,
equally
regrettable
route
was
decided
upon,
and
this
new
gateway
through
the
walls
was
designed
by
the
city
engineer,
A.H.F.
Jiggens
and
Grenfell
Baines
of
the
Building
Design
Partnership,
and
opened
in
1966
by
the
Minister
of
Transport,
Barbara
Castle.
It
is
said
to
have
been
praised
for "Its
elegance
and
combination
of
simplicity
and
lightness".
You
must
make
your
own
minds
up
about
this
from
our
photograph.
Its
appearance
is,
however,
considerably
marred
by
the
ugly
plastic
traffic
barriers
situated
directly
below.
The
ring
road
between
here
and
the
Castle
occupies
the
site
of
four
old
streets:
Castle
Esplanade,
Nicolas
Street,
Linenhall
Street
and-
nearest
to
us-
St. Martin's
Fields,
which
did
a
right-angled
turn
just
short
of
the
city
wall
and
joined
up
with
the
end
of
King
Street.
Here
you
can
see
a
terrace
of
fine
Georgian
houses,
the
King's
Buildings
of
1776,
which
stood
propped-up
and
derelict
for
years
before
being
carefully
restored
during
the
1980s.
Our
photograph
shows
the
scene
in 1965, during
the
final
days
of
the
old
road-
the
King's
Buildings
are
seen
on
the
left,
the
Infirmary
nurse's
home
on
the
right.
The
demolition
of
the
entire
left-hand
side
of
the
street
is
well
advanced
and
you
can
actually
see
the
course
of
the
new
ring
road
marked
out
in
the
mud
in
the
foreground,
heading
straight
for
the
new
breach
in
the
city
wall.
(This interesting photograph was taken somewhat earlier from a viewpoint slightly to the right and shows the buildings in St. Martin's fields still standing).
Compare
this
photograph
with
the
one
below,
which
shows
the
same
view
thirty
years
on,
and
the
present
mundane
collection
of
modern
structures
along St.
Martin's
Way.
The
large
and
ugly
office
block
on
the
left
has
stood
empty
for
a
number
of
years.
This,
and
all
the
land
between
it
and
the
Town
Hall-
currently
occupied
by
the
main
bus
station,
boarded-up Masonic
Hall and City
Mission and
an
ancient
bowling
green
(not
to
mention
the
Roman
and
medieval
remains
beneath)-
were
due
to
be
replaced
by
a
huge
new
retail
and
housing
development.
After
many
of
these
buildings
had
been
vacated
and
boarded
up-
and
a
great
deal
of
public
unease
about
the
scale
and
nature
of
the
project
was
expressed-
the
developers, Scottish
Widows,
chose
to
pull
out,
declaring
the
project
to
be "no
longer
viable".
The
immediate
future
of
this
large
area
of
Chester
city
centre
thus
remains,
for
the
moment,
uncertain,
although,
of
recent
months,
a
company
by
the
name
of
London
&
Amsterdam
Developments
is
reported
to
be
in
discussions
with
Chester's
planning
officials
about
the
site.
Go
here for
further
details...
In
the
middle
distance,
past
the
aforementioned
vacant
office
block,
is
seen
the International
(formerly Moat
House)
Hotel built
above
a
multi-storey
car
park,
behind
which
is
located
the Gateway
Theatre amidst
an
unattractive
jumble
of
1960s
and
70's
brutalist
architecture-
and
this
writer's very
least favourite
part
of
the
city.
The
crass
attempt
to
integrate
the
over-large
hotel
building
within
the
Chester
cityscape
by
the
liberal
use
of
bits
of
'stuck-on'
mock half
timbering
is
particularly
unpleasant,
and
puts
one
in
mind
of
architect
Norman
Foster's
remark about "putting
lipstick
on
a
gorilla". Its interior may be comfortable enough in an anonymous sort of way, but the area opposite the hotel's main entrance has remained, unaccountably, an unfinished concrete wasteland since the place was built over thirty years ago- hardly the vision of 'ancient romantic Chester' that many of our city's first-time visitors has been led to expect...
Above
the
hotel
may be seen rising
the tall
19th
century
steeple
of
what
was
originally
a
Saxon
foundation,
Holy
Trinity
Church in Watergate
Street (visible
in
both
pictures).
This
stands
upon
the
site
of
the
West
Gate
of
the
Roman
fortress,
the Porta
Principalis
Dextra.
The
line
of
the
original,
much
narrower
streets
ran
along
the
right-hand
side
of
the
present
road-
as
we
view
the
photograph-
and
dozens
of
buildings
were
demolished
to
make
room
for
the
left-hand
lane
and
the
associated
office
blocks,
tyre
depots,
car
parks
and
suchlike
mediocre
modern
structures.
You can clearly see the original layout of the area in this detail from the 1898 Chester OS map.
But
no
doubt
the
area
immediately
around
us
will
be
much
improved
when
the
development
on
the
Infirmary
site
is
completed.
Nontheless,
the
view
as
you
stand
on
the
top
of
St. Martin's
Gate
is
certainly
interesting-
the
full
extent
of
the
North
wall
from Bonewaldesthorne's
Tower to
our
starting
point
at
the Northgate being
visible.
On
occasions
from
here
you
may
see
barges
on
the
canal,
bicycles
on
the
towpath,
trains
on
the
railway
and,
inevitably,
cars
on
the
road
below-
all
at
the
same
time.
If
you're
not
too
bothered
by
the
proximity
of
fast-moving
traffic,
walk
a
little
way
along
the
ring
road's
footpath
to
see
a
grand
panorama
of
the
Victorian
rooftops
in
and
around Garden
Lane and
a
fine
view
of
the
remaining
green
spaces
between
here
and
the
Clwyd
Hills
in
the
distance.
Earlier
in
our
walk,
when
we
were
at
the Newgate,
you
will
remember
how
we
temporarily
parted
company
with
the
Roman
walls,
and
I
told
you
how,
in
the
early
10th
century,
the
long-abandoned
defences
had
been
restored
and
extended
by
new
Saxon
masters
to
enclose
a
much
greater
area
of
land.
At
this
point,
we
are
now
rejoining
the
line
of
the
original
fortifications-
if
you
look
carefully
at
the
point
where
the
steps
meet
the
pavement
on
the
eastern
(city)
side
of
St. Martin's
Gate,
you
will
see
a
square
outline
of
cobbles
laid
out
in
the
pavement.
This
marks
the
site
of
the North-West
Corner
Tower of
the
Roman
fortress-
the
original
wall
having
run
south
from
here
on
the
line
of
the
ring
road
below,
to
the
now-vanished
West
Gate.
When
the
new
road
was
constructed,
a
brief
and
(as
the
official
record
phrases
it) "severely
under-resourced
opportunity
was
presented
to
to
observe
the
remains
of
an
unprecedented
length
of
the
Roman
defences,
while
the
possibilities
of
future
investigations
were
severely
reduced".
The
work
was
undertaken
by
Dennis
Petch,
the-then
Curator
of
the
Grosvenor
Museum.
He
was
forced
to
spend
much
of
his
career
undertaking
urgent
and
hurried
rescue
excavations
on
the
large
areas
of
the
city's
irreplaceable
heritage
then
being
deliberately-
and
often
needlessly-
destroyed.
Read
his
terse
comments
about
the
destruction
of
a
great
Roman
bath
house
on
the
site
of
the
Grosvenor
Shopping
Precinct here.
Until
the
coming
of
the
ringroad
and
the
construction
of
St.Martin's
Gate
in
1965,
this
north-west
corner
tower,
which
was
built
around
AD103,
survived
to
a
height
of
eleven
courses
above
plinth
level-
just
a
couple
of
courses
less
than
the
height
of
the
present
city
walls.
Everything
above
ground
level
was
demolished
and
the
site,
like
so
many
of
Chester's
Roman
relics,
is
poorly
presented-
in
this
case
hardly
presented
at
all-
the
ancient
foundations
being
completely
hidden
from
view
beneath
the
pavement.
Just
beyond
this
is
a
decent
development
of
student
flats,
newly-erected
in
a
style
sympathetic
to
the
neighbouring
18th
century King's
Buildings-
although
a
few
trees
planted
around
the
area
would
help
to
soften
the
new
buildings
and
help
to
alleviate
the
noise
and
stench
of
the
nearby
ring
road.
Prior
to
this,
the
site
was
occupied
by
an
old
house
known
as Pemberton
Cottage which
stood
sadly
derelict
for
many
years.
Just
beyond,
behind
King's
Buildings
is King's
Court,
a
pleasant
and
secluded
development
of
small
modern
houses
which
provide
an
interesting
contrast
with
the
fine
17th
and
18th
century
buildings
in
King
Street.
Right:
This
entire
run-down
area
between
the
Inner
Ring
Road
and
the
distant
Town
Hall
is
due
to
change
beyound
all
recognition
in
the
near
future:
here's
the
details...
The
unsightly
and
long-neglected
piece
of
land
just
behind
the
King's
Buildings
and
separated
from
the
ring
road
by
a
high
wall
(on
the
left
of
the
above
photograph)
is
apparently
soon
to
have
four
three-storey
houses
built
upon
it,
despite
the
plan
being
refused
by
the
city
council
planning
board
on
the
grounds
that
"the
outlook
from
King's
Buildings
would
be
destroyed-
it
would
create
a
tenement
effect".
A
government
inspector
disagreed,
however,
saying
that
in
this
part
of
Chester,
"a
more
intensive
degree
of
development
is
appropriate" and now, in June 2004 the new buildings are half complete and appear to be pleasingly in keeping with their Georgian neighbours.
And
now,
gratefully
leaving
the
ring
road
behind
us,
we
embark
upon
our
final
short
stroll
back
to
our
starting
point,
but
first
pausing
to
consider
the
Bridge
of
Sighs...
Curiousities from Chester's History no. 26
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