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 Castle II |
A Virtual Stroll Around the Walls of Chester 12. The Grosvenor Bridge |
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s
we stroll on with the Castle on our right and the
River Dee to our left, we rejoin the walls proper,
even though at this point they are by no means of the impressive dimensions
we encountered earlier in our journey. As we learned earlier, the walls in the
vicinity of the Castle were greatly altered when the gaol was built- and then
demolished- and the nearby land was enclosed.
By the 1830s, the city's ancient churchyards were full up. The Bishop of Chester had spoken of the disgraceful state of these burial grounds and of a "general feeling that the interments of the dead should be removed from the abodes of the living". A private company proposed to develop the Little Roodee area as a new cemetery but the city authorities disapproved of this and, in 1847, Canon Blomfield suggested a site on the other side of the river instead. This land actually belonged to the Marquis of Westminster but, when approached, he agreed to exchange it for a modest shareholding in the new Chester General Cemetery Company and thus was commenced what is now known as the Overleigh Cemetery.
Here is the grave of poor Edward Langtry,
the ill-used husband of a superstar of her day, Lily Langtry, the 'Jersey Lily'. In
1897,
separated
from
his
notorious
wife-
who
was, at the time,
otherwise
engaged
with
Edward,
Prince
of
Wales (later to become King Edward VII)-
he
had
been
discovered
wandering "bruised
and
dazed" around
Crewe
railway
station. Previous to this, he had apparently sustained
a mysterious injury during his voyage from Ireland. He was
duly committed
to
the
Chester
Lunatic
Asylum (now the psychiatric wing of the Countess of Chester Hospital)
where
he
died
nine
days
later.
His
funeral
at
Overleigh
was
attended
by
a few
friends
and
relatives-
and
also
by
many
spectators,
anxious
to
catch
a glimpse
of
the
beautiful
actress.
Lily
didn't
turn
up,
but
sent
a wreath
and
money
for
expenses
instead-
in
addition
to
having
a statement
read
out
that
she
had
been
giving
Edward
a quarterly
allowance.
She
died
in
Monte
Carlo
in
1929
and
was
buried
alonside
her
parents
in
St. Saviour's,
on
the
island
of
Jersey
and
poor
Edward
lies
alone
in
his
Chester
grave.Chewing gum, chewing gum, made of wax
Brought me to my grave at last.
When I die, God will say "Throw that dirty stuff away!"
Local
children
long
used
to
sing
this
ditty
as
a
skipping
song,
and
to
this
day
flowers
mysteriously appear on
little
Mabel's
grave.
Also
in
Overleigh
are
the
eminent
local
architects
Thomas
Meakin Lockwood
and
John
Douglas,
both, in stark contrast with their grand building designs, now resting beneath plain and simple monuments. Professor Robert Newstead, the renowned archaeologist who discovered the amphitheatre and many other Roman remains, lies here too.
Richard Price, Dee salmon fisherman, has a carving of the Grosvenor Bridge (which we will visit shortly), the river and a fishing boat on his white marble headstone.
William Biddulph Cross, known for his galvanic cures and the maker of his own coffin, died 5th September 1908 aged 85. He was a multi-talented man- shoemaker, electrician, bound his own books and framed pictures. He possessed a wonderful library was also a student of anatomy with many diagrams hanging in his room. The coffin he made took him 10 years to complete and was made of thousands of matchboxes packed with wood and framed in black wood. In a space in the lid was a battery, with wires and zinc plates throughout the coffin (it is said he intended to fit a light). During the two days the coffin was at the undertakers, Messrs Dutton and Sons in Frodsham Street, the shop was visited by hundreds of curious people anxious to have a look. The funeral took place on a wet Wednesday afternoon. Long before the hearse left his house in Crook Street, hundreds of people crowded the Rows in Watergate Street and Bridge Street to get a better view. Wreaths were hung on the hearse and the coffin with the battery on the lid were in full view. At the cemetery the path to the grave was lined by large crowds and policeman were on duty to keep order. The battery was disconnected and removed before the remains were laid to rest and the crowds dispersed quietly at the end of the service.
Other gravestones tell of two young boys drowned in the Dee at Saltney, one while trying to save the other and of goldsmith Harry Riley Horton, who died in 1893 aged 39, buried here with his nine infant children. His is a rare example of a Victorian headstone bearing a photograph set in a small sealed frame- a practise more common on the continent. After 100 years it is still faintly legible.
Henry Raikes, Chancellor of Chester, has one of the most extravagant tombs in the cemetery, featuring a full-size prone statue of the occupant protected by an ornate stone canopy. Today, it is extensively- and picturesquely- overgrown by ivy.
A sad story is that of Ishiao Ishimura, a 23 year old Japanese acrobat and part of the Mikado Company. While they were performing at Chester's Royalty Theatre in December 1915, he failed to complete a somersault and struck the stage heavily with the back of his neck. He was rushed to the Infirmary but died the following day. He lies here now, far from home, his memorial inscribed in both English and Japanese.
Higher up the bank in the shadow of the mighty Grosvenor Bridge is the small and simple war grave of white Portland stone of a young Chester girl from Liverpool Road who was serving in the Womens Royal Air Force, Marjorie Anne Tucker aged 32. She served a driver at RAF Sealand. Along with a group of friends she arrived early at Sealand Station on 31st August 1918. To reach the exit, passengers had to walk about 35 yards and then cross the line at the rear of the standing train. Miss Tucker, being nearest to the line, failed to notice a train approaching which struck her and killed her instantly. Her funeral was the city's first military funeral for a woman. The coffin, draped in the Union Flag, was drawn by the tender that Miss Tucker had driven. Tragically this was just three months before Armistice Day.
Mrs Mary Finney, the "Queen of the Gypsies", is buried in the later extension to the cemetery on the other side of the road. She died in 1962, aged 79 and rests now, re-united with her husband Guilderoy, who had died 30 years earlier, beneath a stone angel with outspread wings. The grave is close to the gate and often has flowers on it. By tradition, passing travellers always lay flowers on any 'Royal' gypsy tomb.
In November 2001, the presence of the old filled-in lake in the cemetery was commemorated when the area was formally re-opened as a site for the burial of cremated remains and named The Garden of Reflection. Designed by architect Rob Rodger, the new garden was conceived around the idea of a lake: "It has been laid out in circles. Imagine a stone being dropped into a lake and sending out ripples. There are ripples of maintained yew hedges, and hopefully we will get some reflections from the head stones as well".
Anyone searching for details of an ancestor they think may be buried in Overleigh Cemetery should avail themselves of Cheshire County Council's excellent online database which covers the years 1850-1950 and contains over 60,000 entries. The Chester Wiki has a page about the cemetery including an interesting aerial photograph showing the location of some of the above-mentioned graves. Overleigh Cemetery contains 127 First World War burials, about half of them made from local hospitals including the Chester War Hospital which was housed in the Infirmary building. Second World War burials number 69. The majority of the burials are scattered throughout the cemetery but there is a small war graves plot made up of 32 graves from both wars. Details can be found on the Commonwealth War Graves Commission's website.
Back
across
the
river,
the Little
Roodee is
today
mostly
used
as
a
car
and
coach
park
except
for
a
couple
of
weeks
in
the
Spring
when
it
traditionally
accomodates
Pat Collins'
travelling
fair.
You
will
find
refreshments
and
toilets
available
here,
should
the
need
arise;
access
is
via
steps
running
down
from
Castle
Drive.
From
the
riverside
here,
you will also be able to access the newly-built Riverside Promenade and
also
obtain
a
splendid
view
of
the
great
bridge
which dominates the area and which we
are
to
discuss
next...
The Grosvenor
Bridge
Set
into
the
grassy
embankment
of
the
city
wall
here
is
a
small
stone
bridge,
about
six
feet
long,
which
is
illustrated
at
the
bottom
of
the
page.
Constructed
by
James
Trubshaw
of
Staffordshire-
whose
company
also
built
the
real
bridge-
this
was
architect
Thomas
Harrison's
model
for
the
huge
and
elegant
structure
which
was
his
finest
work,
seen
rising
beyond
the
sea
of
parked
cars
on
the
Little
Roodee:
the
Grosvenor
Bridge,
shown
above
in
an
arcadian
lithograph
by
Thomas
Bailey.
The
model
had
originally
been
exhibited
in
the
Grand
Jury
Room
in
the
Castle-
also
built
by
Harrison-
but
was
later
removed
to
the
Water
Tower
Gardens
until,
in
1979
it
was
restored
and
placed
in
its
present
location
here
in
Castle
Drive.
By the beginning of the 19th century, the only river crossing, the Old Dee Bridge, was almost constantly congested and an alternative route was urgently required. In 1808 Chester Corporation had held a competition to select the best plans for a new bridge, but no further action was considered until Thomas Telford was appointed in 1815 to construct a new road from Shrewsbury to Holyhead. Because of this threat to Chester's trade, a public meeting was held at the Exchange- the old Town Hall- on 28th September 1818, and a committee was appointed which included the mayor the two city treasurers, the two members of Pariiament for the city, Earl Grosvenor and the Bishop of Chester. The committee was empowered to consider plans, surveys and estimates, and at its first meeting, held on 3rd October 1818, Thomas Harrison was requested to supply plans for a new bridge. Eventually application was made to Parliament for an Act to empower Commissioners to improve the Old Dee Bridge, erect a new bridge and construct approach roads. This Act received the royal assent on 10 June 1825.
The
radical
solution
eventually
arrived
at
involved
the
construction
of
an
entirely
new
thoroughfare,
Grosvenor
Road,
which
ran
diagonally
to
the
ancient
street
pattern
and
linked
the
city
to
a
new
bridge,
designed
by
Thomas
Harrison
and
proving
to
be
his
final
work-
at
the
time
of
the
commission
he
was
82
years
old.
In
fact,
he
did
not
live
to
see
its
completion-
he
resigned
aged
85
and
died
four
years
later,
the
great
task
not
yet
completed.
The
work
was
finished
by
his
able
pupil
and
assistant,
William
Cole.
Previously,
Harrison
(portrayed on the right) had
designed
Skirton
Bridge,
over
the
River
Lune
in
Lancaster,
which
was
copied
by
John
Rennie
for
the
Waterloo
and
London
bridges.
He
actually
provided
three
different
designs,
two
in
stone
and
one
using
iron
and
the
foundation
stone
of
the
chosen
design
was
laid
by
the
Marquis
of
Westminister
on
the
1st
October
1827.
The
original
plan
was
to
turn
the
road
from
Bridge
Street
left
by
the
Castle
and
cross
directly
to
what
is
now
Old
Wrexham
Road,
but
Harrison
found
deep
soft
ground
where
the
bridge
piers
were
intented
to
stand.
Several
eminent
architects
were
called
upon
to
give
opinions,
but
it
was
the
great
railway,
bridge
and
canal
builder,
Thomas
Telford
who
found
firm
rock
a
little
downstream
from
the
original
site,
and
it
was
here
they
chose
to
build.
Longer
embankments
to
carry
the
approach
roads
became
necessary,
as
did
the
new
stretch
of
Wrexham
Road
that
we
know
today.
The
construction
was
undertaken
by
Trubshaw's
of
Staffordshire,
and
the
surveyor
and
clerk
of
works
was
Jesse
Hartley,
the
celebrated
engineer
responsible
for
the
magnificent
masonry
still
very
much
in
evidence
in
Liverpool
Docks.
Speaking
of
the
project,
James
Trubshaw
(1777-1853)
said
he
was "Convinced
the
arch
will
be
the
largest
and
finest
stone
arch
in
Europe
and
will
consequently
be
a
lasting
monument
to
the
glory
and
superority
of
Great
Britain".
An interesting
pencil
sketch
of
1831
(below) by
Thomas
Bailey
shows
the
method
of
the
bridge's
construction.
The
massive
centring
consisted
of
struts
radiating
from
the
top
of
temporary
stone
piers,
braced
horizontally
in
both
directions
and
supporting
planks,
upon
which
the
curve
of
the
great
arch
was
formed.
The
outer
courses
of
the
arch
and
the
quoins
are
of
Anglesey
limestone,
which
was
brought
to
Chester
by
sea,
while
the
rest
of
the
bridge
is
cased
in
Peckforton
sandstone.
The
Grosvenor
Bridge
was
built
at
a
cost
of £50,000
and
until
1864
was
the
greatest
single
span-
at
200
feet
across
and
60
feet
high-
of
any
stone
arch
anywhere
in
the
world.
Thousands turned out to watch when the bridge
was
formally
opened
on Wednesday 17 October
1832,
by
the
thirteen
year-old Princess
Victoria (five
years
before
she
became
Queen
and
three
years
after
the
death
of
Thomas
Harrison).
The Princess and Duchess had been touring Wales and were staying in Chester as guests of the Marquis of Westminster. In a family ceremony, the Princess stood as female sponsor at the christening of Lord and Lady Robert Grosvenor's infant daughter, Charlotte.
Accompanied
by
her mother, the
Duchess
of
Kent and the Marquis and Marchioness of Westminster,
the princess was
driven
through
a
triumphal
arch
decorated
with
the
Royal
Arms
erected
in
the
centre
of
the
still-unfinished
bridge. The state coach was driven by the chief coachman of Eaton Hall, Mr Robert Roberts. A
21-gun
salute
was
fired
from the Castle Square and
the
Princess
gave
a
short
speech, when she declared, "I seize the occasion of our being the first persons to pass over this magnificent Bridge to lend myself to the feeling that prevails, and to name it Grosvenor Bridge".
The Chester Chronicle at the time described her as "this interesting little princess, dressed in white, her hair combed back and plainly adjusted behind her ears, with bright blue eyes and pleasing countenance".
Lord Robert Grosvenor led the Royal procession on horseback, followed by carriages containing Chester's Member of Parliament, Mr Wilbraham, and Lady Anne Wilbraham, Lord Ragot and family, Sir John Conroy, the Baroness Litzen, Lady Catherine Jenkinson, the Earl and Countess Grosvenor and Countess Wilton.
After the naming ceremony Princess Victoria visited the Shire Hall and County Gaol where she met the Governor, Mr Dunstan. The Duchess left £25 for the comfort and consolation of poor debtors. Later she visited the garrison armoury and was shown a store of 30,000 weapons. The day concluded with a thanksgiving service in Chester Cathedral, conducted by the Lord Bishop, the Rev. Prebendiary Blomfield.
The
bridge
was
duly completed
and
opened
to
traffic
in
November
1833.
Writing
soon
after
the
event,
Joseph
Hemingway
commented: "While
the
erection
of
this
bridge
is
allowed
to
be
a
decided
improvement
and
a
great
ornament
to
the
city,
some
doubt
whether
the
excessive
tolls
will
not
materially
injure
its
trade.
Already,
new
roads
have
been
made
and
coaches
set
up
by
which
Chester
is
avoided
as
a
thoroughfare.
Hitherto
the
shareholders
have
had
no
reason
to
congratulate
themselves
on
their
speculation".
His
fears
were
obviously
shared,
for
the
tolls
were
abolished
in
1885
and
the
cost
of
maintainance
thenceforth
became
the
responsibility
of
the
city.
The
bridge's
great
height
was
necessary
to
allow
the
masts
of
those
sailing
ships
which
were
still
able
to
travel
this
far
up
river
to
pass
underneath.
When
you
look
down
from
the
parapet
today,
it
is
obvious
how
advanced
has
been
the
silting
of
the
river
and
it
is
indeed
difficult
to
realise
that
for
centuries
Chester
was
the
foremost
seaport
of
northern
England,
trading
with
all
parts
of
the
known
world.
Chester
was
also
a
major
shipbuilder-
in
1810,
more
ships
were
launched
along
the
banks
of
the
Dee
than
at
Liverpool!
One
of
the
most
famous
was
the
steamship
Royal
Charter
which
famously
sank
off
Holyhead
in
1859
with
great
loss
of
life
and
property.
She
had
almost
completed
a
voyage
from
Australia
to
Liverpool
and
her
passengers,
many
of
whom
had
made
their
fortunes
in
the
gold
fields,
were
returning
home
to
a
life
of
affluence.
But
it
was
not
to
be-
most
of
the
passengers
were
drowned,
and
their
treasure
lost
and
scattered
by
the
tides.
The
wreck
of
the
Royal
Charter
has
been
picked
over
by
divers
ever
since,
and
finds
are
still
being
made-
an
acquaintance
of
the
writer
has
a
wedding
ring
fashioned
from
a
nugget
of
Australian
gold
from
the
ship,
which
he
discovered
upon
the
sea
bed.
During the Second World War, a Chester veterinary surgeon-turned-airman by the name of Jimmy Storrar flew his Hawker Hurricane beneath the arch of the Grosvenor Bridge!
Thomas
De
Quincey,
the
'English
Opium
Eater',
frequently
came
to
Chester
to
'dry
out'
and
to evade
creditors
and
officers
of
the
law.
His
mother
lived
in
a
house
known
as
the Priory,
situated
among
the
now-vanished
ancient
buildings
adjoining St. John's
Church.
De
Quincey
wrote
about
his
wanderings
near
the
River
Dee
in
his
great
Confessions of
1821: "The
streets
could
be
evaded
by
shaping
a
course
along
the
city
walls;
which
I
did,
and
descended
into
some
obscure
lane
that
brought
me
gradually
to
the
banks
of
the
river
Dee.
In
the
infancy
of
its
course
amongst
the
Denbighshire
mountains,
this
river,
famous
in
our
pre-Norman
history
for
the
earliest
parade
of
English
monarchy
(it
was
a
very
scenical
parade,
for
somewhere
along
this
reach
of
the
Dee,
Edgar,
the
first
sovereign
of
all
England,
was
rowed
by
nine
vassals reguli)
-is
wild
and
picturesque,
and
even
below
my
mother's
Priory
it
wears
a
character
of
interest.
But,
a
mile
or
so
nearer
to
its
mouth,
when
leaving
Chester
for
Parkgate,
it
becomes
miserably
tame;
and
the
several
reaches
of
the
river
take
the
appearance
of
formal
canals.
On
the
right
bank
of
the
river
runs
an
artificial
mound,
called
The
Cop.
It
was,
I
believe,
originally
a
Danish
work;
and
certainly
its
name
is
Danish
(i.e.
Icelandic
or
Old
Danish)
and
the
same
from
which
is
derived
our
architectural
word
coping.
Upon
this
bank
I
was
walking
and
throwing
my
gaze
along
the
formal
vista
presented
by
the
river.
Some
trifle
of
anxiety
might
mingle
with
this
gaze
at
the
first,
lest
perhaps
Philistines might
be
abroad...
but
I
have
generally
found
that,
if
you
are
in
quest
of
some
certain
escape
from
Philistines
of
whatsoever
class-
sheriff-officers,
bores,
no
matter
what-
the
surest
refuge
is
to
be
found
amongst
hedgerows
and
fields,
amongst
cows
and
sheep..."
This Cop De
Quincey
refers
to, which "transformed
a marshy waste, the haunt of thieves and vagabonds of all descriptions into the verdant pasture we see today" was constructed under the mayorality of Thomas Lyenall who came to office in 1591. He took the opportunity to undertake a major 'spring clean' of the town and all manner of rubbish and waste from the streets was incorporated into its fabric. It commences
approximately
where
the
Grosvenor
Bridge
now
stands
and
continues
to
border
the Roodee,
which
we
will
encounter
soon.
He
went
on
to
describe,
in
quite
a
comical
passage,
his
terror
at
encountering
for
the
first
time
the
tidal
phenomenon
known
as
the Bore of
the
Dee: "An affectation to
which
only
some
few
rivers
here
and
there
were
liable...
so
ignorant
was
I
that,
until
that
moment,
I
had
never
heard
of
such
a
nervous
affection
in
rivers.
Subsequently
I
found
that
the
neighbouring
river
Severn,
a
far
more
important
stream,
suffered
at
spring-tides
the
same
kind
of
hysterics..."
This
remarkable
aerial
view-
a
detail
from
John
McGahey's
famous
View
of
Chester
from
a
Balloon-
shows
the
Grosvenor
Bridge
and
its
surroundings
as
they
appeared
around
the
year
1855 and here is a fine watercolour of the bridge in 1869....
'Nowhere'
If
you
were
to
take
a
stroll
along
the
pleasant,
almost
rural,
path
(but, as our photograph shows, very potholed and muddy!) which
connects
Edgar's
Park
by
the
Old
Dee
Bridge with
the
Grosvenor
Bridge,
you
would
pass
by
a
small
cottage
bearing
the
intriguing
name
of
'Nowhere'!
For
many
years,
this
house
on
the
banks
of
the
Dee
has
been
the
subject
of
speculation
as
to
the
origins
of
its
curious
name.
It
was
said to have been
built
in
the
early
nineteenth
century
to
accomodate
the
Clerk
of
Works
for
the
construction
of
the
Grosvenor
Bridge, but old maps show the house standing as early as 1789, and records seem to indicate that it was actually built by a fisherman named James Bingley and that its original name was, simply, 'Riverside'.
The house was occupied by the family until at least 1850 and then passed to a one Nan Youde- actually a relative of the Bingleys- who gave it its remarkable name. It was suggested by two elderly sisters, the Misses Brown, who used to used to stop and chat with Nan on their daily walks to the riverside from their home in Curzon Park. Their sentiments were that the house stood "in the middle of nowhere" and that this seemed an appropriate name for it. Nan was happy to oblige and from that day, the house became known as 'nowhere'. Nan's relatives, the Smith Family, resided there for a further forty years, leaving around 1960 and the property, which at some point had been split into
two
small cottages-
named
One
and
Two
Nowhere-
were sold to a Mr Lewis, who converted them back into one large accomodation. The present owners of Nowhere are Mr and Mrs White.
A
local
fisherman's tale of the cottage was that it stood in the middle of "a high life, a low life and a no life". The 'high life' being Overleigh Manor, which stands on the cliff overlooking the cottage, and where the squire of the village once lived. The 'low life' was old Greenway Street, the home of the salmon fishermen and their families and the 'no life' was, of course, the Overleigh Cemetery! A further legend
has
it
that
long
ago,
the
building
was
an 'unofficial'
pub-
a
secret
drinking
and
meeting
place
for
the
menfolk
of
Handbridge.
When
asked
by
their
wives
where
thay
had
been,
they
were
able
to
answer,
quite
truthfully, "nowhere, dear"!
A
more
recent
legend
connects
the
house
with
the Beatles!
It
is
said
that
when
the
Fab
Four
were
performing
at
the
(sadly, recently-demolished)
Royalty
Theatre in
City
Road
in
1963,
they
heard
the
old
stories
and
couldn't
believe
that
there
could
be
a
place
called
Nowhere.
John
Lennon
was
so
fascinated
he
apparently
visited
the
house
to
see
if
it
was
true-
and, inspired,
later
wrote
a
song,
featured
in
Yellow
Submarine, entitled Nowhere
Man...
John
Lennon
had
another
Chester
connection,
for
his
grandmother, Annie
Jane
Milward,
was
born
at
the
ancient
Bear & Billet
Inn,
across
the
river
in
Lower
Bridge
Street,
in
1873.
We
now
come
to
the
junction
of
Castle
Drive
and
Grosvenor
Road-
one
of
the
noisiest
and
busiest
part
of
our
entire
journey
round
Chester's
city
walls.
In
ancient
times
a
narrow
valley
containing
a
tributary
of
the
River
Dee
existed
here.
By
late
in
the
Roman
ocupation,
this
watercourse
seems
to
have
declined
and, in the 12th century,
the
whole
area
was
eventually
enclosed
within
the
walls,
but
for
centuries
remained
low-lying
boggy
ground.
In
the
12th
century
the
area
from
the
Castle
as
far
as
modern
Blackfriars
(which
we
will
pass
later)
was
granted
to
the nuns
of
St. Mary's as
part
of
their
estate.
Much
later,
when
the
approaches
to
the
Grosvenor
Bridge
were
being
prepared,
the
entire
valley
was "necessarily
filled
up
at
an
immense
expense
of
time
and
labour".
What,
we
wonder,
would
those
citizens
witnessing
the
stately
passage
of
the
first
horses
and
carriages
at
the
opening
of
this
grand
bridge
make
of
the
bedlam
of
motorised
traffic
that
constantly
passes
to
and
fro
today?
Aside
from
their
horror
at
the
noise
and
stench,
they
would
nontheless
doubtless
be
proud
that
their
solid
Victorian
engineering
was
still
giving
excellent
service
to
the
city
after
165
years
of
constant
use!
Taking
great
care
to
cross
Grosvenor
Road
safely,
we
enter
Nun's
Road
and
are
refreshed
by
the
sight
of
the
huge
green
open
space
that
is
home
to
Britain's
oldest
racecourse-
the
beautiful
Roodee...
Curiousities from Chester's History no. 21
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