The Black & White Picture Place

Details from John McGahey's View of Chester from a Balloon 1855:

1. The Old Port Area



This detail from John McGahey's highly detailed chromolithographic print of Chester as she appeared in the year 1855 shows numerous sailing ships negotiating the River Dee. Due to centuries of silting, the formerly-considerable river trade had been largely destroyed until this section was canalised around the middle of the previous century. New wharves and warehouses were constructed on the banks of the river and these may be seen in the centre of the picture.

With the continuing silting of the Dee and the meteoric rise of the Port of Liverpool, the shipping gradually faded away (although steam coasters continued to visit Crane Wharf until the 1930s) and the area continued to decline, to the degree that if you walk around today, it is difficult to imagine the bustle during the two hundred years or so of the so-called Old Port's existence. At the time of writing, the entire area is being transformed yet again, with the development of new houses and businesses. Some of the initial proposals for the area proved to be less-than-popular with local people, as you can read here.

Below the port buildings, a train, having passed through a tunnel in the city walls, is about to pass over a long viaduct on its way through North Wales to Holyhead in Anglesey, to meet the boats for Ireland. This line was constructed in 1846, only nine years before this view was made, and continues in service to this day.

The ancient line of the city wall cuts up the centre of the picture, at the corner of which you can see the Watertower, built in 1322 to defend the medieval port. To its left, the large piece of open land was anciently known as Lady Barrow's Hey, hey being a Saxon name for a field enclosed with hedges. Earlier still, this area had been used by the Romans as a cemetery and many graves were uncovered when the Chester Royal Infirmary- seen to the left of the field- was being built in 1761. All traces of the open land disappeared as the hospital expanded over the next 200 years. It finally closed in 1993 after 230 years of medical care on the site, all services were transferred to the Countess of Chester Hospital on Liverpool Road and the site was sold for new housing.

Between the Watertower and the wharves, the large triangular area of agricultural land was formerly known as the Tower Field and in 1836 Hemingway wrote that it had "recently been rented by the guardians of the poor by the cultivation of which, by spade husbandry, able-bodied paupers were very properly and advantagiously employed". Today, the attractive Water Tower Gardens, a pleasant little park, complete with tennis courts and a popular bowling green, occupies the site.

To the right of the Watertower, the complex system of basins around Tower Wharf mark the junction of the Shropshire Union Canal with the River Dee and the fine 18th century building known today as Telford's Warehouse, Chester's finest live music venue, can clearly be seen.


Other enlarged sections from John McGahey's wonderful illustration:

St.John's Church
Grosvenor Bridge
The Kaleyards
The Northgate
The Cathedral

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